Trails & Inspiration

6 of the Best Hikes and Runs in Snowdonia by Hero Douglas

Our SportsShoes x Montane ambassador, Hero Douglas, shares 6 of her favourite hikes and runs in Snowdonia.

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CHECK OUT HERO'S SNOWDONIA KOMOOT HIKING COLLECTION 2023 HERE

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1. Cnicht (6.5 miles)

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This beloved Eryri mountain is nicknamed the Welsh Matterhorn due to the picture perfect pyramid summit. It’s visible for miles around and looks like every child’s first sketch of a mountain peak. As Cnicht isn’t very high or technical it’s also an ideal introductory summit for littlies or great for a quick jaunt when you haven’t got a full day. The name Cnicht comes from the Welsh word for knight and the mountain definitely looks like the helmet of one riding into battle. It’s 689 meters high and if you go straight up and down is only 500 meters of ascent. 

This is a mountain I miss and pine for when I haven’t been up it for a while. I love everything about trips here from the beautiful drive over and then passing Plas Brondanw (which was the family home of Portmeirion architect Clough Williams-Ellis). The house and gardens have gates painted in this amazing turquoise blue that he concocted and every time I see it I hanker to paint my doors and windows with the same vivid hue. In fact if you look at my Instagram you’ll see I mostly wear tops that colour! The single track road from Garreg leads into the idyllic remote valley of Cwm Croesor. There is a small carpark once you get into the village.  

To embark on your adventure head out of the carpark over the little foot bridge and onto the lane; look out for the legendary outdoor swimming pool fed by the river that was made by locals (for locals). I was always jealous that we never made one in our village! The lane leads onto a well-marked track and very quickly meanders upwards onto the ridge. The benefits of Cnicht being a mini-mountain is it’s literally a hop and skip till you reach the summit (although this does depend on fitness/ability/age). I did the loop on Friday in a couple of hours whereas my mum did the same route a few weeks ago and our Komoot times are rather different! Hers was six and a half hours compared to my two! She does enjoy taking her time and numerous snack breaks but I do wonder if she didn’t have a little nap as well!

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There is a short scramble to the summit and then you are rewarded with a breath-taking panoramic sea and summit view. You could sit all day (which my mum obviously did) gazing from the tantalising Cardigan Bay to Cader Idris then north towards Snowdon and back round again to the nearby Moelwyn Mawr and Bach. If you want to just do the summit then you can retrace your tracks back to the village, but I’d definitely recommend continuing on for the slightly longer circular walk further into the Moelwyn hills.  

The undulating scenery on the tops is gorgeous with too many magical lakes and reservoirs to mention. This area is without doubt a wild swimmers paradise. From the summit of Cnicht follow the path towards Llyn yr Adar (Bird’s Lake) which will be on your left and then you come to a small cairn and at this point take the path to the right. Now be ready to bog hop for a bit while descending marshy land to the old disused Rhosydd Quarry under Foel Ddu. I am always intrigued when I bring friends/groups here how they are all silenced by the ruins and seemingly affected by the quarrymen’s existence even though a century has almost lapsed since they last toiled here. Somehow you can’t pass through without their lives touching you. The path is part of the 83 mile Llwybr Llechi Eryri/Snowdonia Slate Trail and this gentle miner’s track weaves its way through the quarries then snakes down the other side of the valley into Croesor. The view back over to Cnicht is lovely and it’s satisfying to look at the route you’ve just done. In the summer there is a really nice café and art gallery which is open from Thursday to Monday and is the perfect spot to refuel before heading home.  

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2. Crimpiau (3.6 miles)

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This hike/run is to a much loved mini-mountain called Crimpiau. The definition of when a hill becomes a mountain is a bit blurred. The UK and US used to classify mountains as over 1000 foot, which probably made anyone from the Himalayas trip over their crampons laughing. The criteria has since been abandoned and now as far as I can tell it’s actually a personal decision and interestingly in this time of nonstop social media scrapping, everyone seems (I say this tentitively in case I’m opening a can of worms) to quietly agree whats what. So this walk is a loop to one of the miniest mountains in Eryri (Snowdonia). Crimpiau might be only 475 meters high but when you are sat on the summit it feels like the gateway to the whole of Eryri and has spectacular views from the Pedol yr Wyddfa (Snowdon Horseshoe) round to the Glyderau and Carneddau. It is also the first mountain that I and so many children climb. A sort of entry level mountain. 

I almost consider this little route to be an extension of my garden. I can pop over the wall and the path leads straight there. It’s where the Easter bunny hid our eggs every year when I was young so it still feels magical like I might find some delicious eadable treasure up there! Although I do remember thinking as a kid; why does everyone else get their eggs hidden in their garden while I have to trek up a mountain! Also if I saw anyone on the walk in I’d say crossly that I hoped they hadn’t stolen my easter eggs and not surprisingly they’d look confused. 

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Crimpiau is the mountain I’ve been up the most times as it’s my most regular run loop. It’s a place I can nip to before work or take the dog for a mooch to watch the sun set. 

The route starts from St Curig’s Church in Capel Curig (handy for me as it’s my family home). If you are coming by car then there is a free car park across the road behind the mountaineering shop Joe Browns but watch out when you cross over as it’s a blind bend and cars fly round the corner. Walk across the field and then over a tiny stream and follow the stone path till you go through a small woodland. Stick to the path that weaves its way to a wooden bridge, once across turn left on to the controversial path through Nant y Geuallt which has been on the news and caused a furore online. It used to be a meandering, boggy in places but very pretty path and has now been decimated by diggers, concrete and gravel into what’s been called a ‘motorway’ and has become a blot on an otherwise beautiful landscape. I know that maintenance is tricky but not sure why large rocks couldn’t have been used like on most of the other paths in Eryri that aesthtically fit in with the surroundings. Anyhow while walking along this bit look around and not at your feet to avoid seeing the ugly gravel! 

When you get to the pass where you can almost see down to Llyn Crafnant take the path off to the left which gently climbs up towards the summit. There is a nice wall to sit on for a snack and to admire the view down to the lake before scrambling up to the summit. Enjoy the views and then follow the ridge back towards Capel. When you get to Llyn Coryn a small lake keep it on the right and follow the fence down, then you get to a boggy section and follow the paths aiming towards Joe Browns. 

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3. Moel Siabod (6 miles)

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Park on the A4086 in the layby beyond Plas y Brenin in Capel Curig (or in the car park by Joe Browns). I was trying to keep a consistent pace for this run so went along the road through the village to Pont Cyfyng but a nice variation is to take the path through the forest from Llyn Mymbyr to Cyfyng Falls. Once at Pont Cyfyng take the steep tarmacked farm track towards Rhos Farm but bear left on the footpath before reaching the farm and continue passing the Siabod Holiday cottages which are a lovely place to stay. 

The landscape opens up here and the track takes you into open countryside and then arrives at the quarry pond a nice swim spot with its carved vertical stone sides. This part of Siabod is steeped in history and was created by the slate mine workings that carved out chunks of rock which sort of adds to the ruggedness. Siabod might be much less visited than the neighbouring Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) and Glyderau but for a 150 years it was a busy hive of activity providing work for the whole community up until the fifties.

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The path then leads up to Llyn y Foel and a large boggy area that I defy anyone to cross without sinking in somewhere! However once on the far side there is the start of the rocky grade 1 scramble Daear Ddu. We went beyond this and ran up the back to the summit and took a moment to enjoy the fabulous views. 

The summit area is a bit of a boulder field so it’s easiest to stick along the summit ridge going NE until you are near to the path. This then leads gently down to the forest where a series of tracks descend to Llyn Mymbyr. 

Plas y Brenin is good for a bar meal and drink afterwards. 

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4. Tryfan, Glyders and Y Garn (7 miles)

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The saying goes; leave Snowdon to the walkers and Tryfan to the climbers and certainly if mountains were dessert islands to be marooned on then Tryfan would be my choice! I first did the North Ridge when I was five (with my three year old brother, mum and uncle). I still remember it vividly, mostly because I got a few minor bumps to the head by being so focused on the rock in front of my eyes that I moved up without looking where I was going and therefore bashed into the boulders overhead. 

Whatever age you are and whatever level of competence remember this mountain commands respect. It’s on my patch as a member of OVMRO (local mountain rescue team) and the majority of our shouts are for incidents here so don’t underestimate the conditions or the technical difficulty of your route selection and make sure you have the kit and competency to undertake what you want to do. It’s also a hot spot for wedding proposals often by guys who are really into the outdoors with girlfriends who aren’t. So guys don’t pop the question on the North Ridge if it’s not your partners thing as she’ll probably say no! 

If approaching from Capel Curig as you arrive at the start of Llyn Ogwen look to the left and the first layby you reach is perfect free parking for this hike. Arrive early to get a space during busy periods. This jalk (run/walk) goes up the North Ridge of Tryfan and so you and everyone in your group needs to be competent scrambling on steep ground, have good navigation in case your phone dies and have the right kit. 

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Go through the gate and up the path by the wall which is to the left of Milestone Buttress. It’s quite steep from the off and soon turns into a large boulder field. Like most scrambles there are hundreds of variants so whatever way you go will be unique to you, but if in doubt remember to stick as closely as possible to the crest of the ridge. A short diversion to the Cannon Stone has become an obligatory Instagram photo stop but best not to be undertaken in icy/wet conditions!

The North Tower is often where people get unnerved but it’s best to stay on the route as going around can lead onto more serious terrain. Keep focused and head straight up to the summit where you will find the twin rocks of Siôn a Siân (Adam and Eve). They are about 3m high with a gap of 1.2m and often climbers celebrate reaching the summit by jumping between them. 

The route now descends the south ridge to the col at Bwlch Tryfan where you follow a wall and head up a short gully to another wall till you arrive the start of Bristly Ridge. The start is by the magical Sinister Gully which despite the eerie name has good rock and holds all the way up. Keep scrambling then descend a rock slab to enter the Great Pinnacles Gap which looks more challenging than it is! Here the rock-scape becomes flatter as you head towards the summit of Glyder Fach. If you have time explore the Cantilever Slab and Castell y Gwynt then head to the next summit Glyder Fawr which is the high point of the day at just over a 1000 meters. 

Drop down to broken ground to the col at Llyn y Cwn and then follow the ridge up to Y Garn. Follow a series of slopes down to the north side of Llyn Idwal and then drop back down to the road and walk along the A5 for a few hundred meters back to your car. 

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5. Llyn Geirionydd and Llyn Crafnant (7 miles)

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This is a beautiful run but avoid it on warm bank holiday weekends (or any other hot summers day) as the two mile singletrack lane from the A5 up to the carpark at Llyn Geirionydd is chaos when too many people flock there. For some inexplicable reason it’s the only lake in Eryri (Snowdonia) that allows water skiing so vehicles towing powerboats clog up the lane and it’s no fun being stuck in a sweltering car for 90 minutes when traffic gridlock occurs.  

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Park at the at the south eastern end of Llyn Geirionydd in the small carpark and from here follow the little country lane along the eastern side of the water to the northern end near to the monument which commemorates the reputed birthplace of Taliesin a 6th century bard. Here you’ll find a little pebble beach where the Afon Geirionydd (more stream like than river) enters the head of the lake and this is the perfect place for a quick dip or to throw sticks in for the dogs. 

Continue along the shore and follow the path roughly northwards and then bear left around the hill. Cross the bridge over the Afon Crafnant and walk through an old mine till you reach the Crafnant Road. The trail is easy and clear around the Llyn Crafnant and we went anti-clockwise. The last part around the lake joins a small lane which has a café for coffee and cake during the summer! 

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6. Capel Curig to Llyn Crafnant and Llyn Geirionydd

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This hike/run is another that starts from St Curig’s Church in Capel Curig and takes in two beautiful lakes, mountain vistas, forest trails and country lanes. I often do this loop completely off-road but occasionally do half on lanes like this version which is great when the weather is iffy or you want get some road miles in or have a dog like mine who can be a pest and pull like a train. So this route includes running along lanes from Llyn Geirionydd back to Capel Curig. I’ll put the loop up on Komoot soon completely off-road.  

There is a free car park in Capel Curig behind the mountaineering shop Joe Browns and from here you cross the A5 and go through a field, then over a tiny stream and follow the stone path till you enter a small woodland.  Stick to the path that weaves its way to a wooden bridge, once across turn left on to the controversial path through Nant y Geuallt which has been covered with unattractive gravel and is now nicknamed ‘the motorway’.  

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When you get to the high point you can see down to Llyn Crafnant and here you follow the path downhill to the west side of the lake so bearing left. At the North end follow the Crafnant Road briefly, then cross over and take the tail into the forest contouring the hill through the old mines then over the bridge crossing Afon Crafnant. The trail leads to Llyn Geirionydd and here you go along the northern shore to the eastern side and from here follow the lane all the way back to the A5. At this point cross over the bridge on the A5 and take the back lane into Capel Curig which is parallel to the A5. The last mile is along the A5 back to the carpark behind Joe Browns.  

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CHECK OUT HERO'S SNOWDONIA KOMOOT HIKING COLLECTION 2023 HERE

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Hero Douglas is an all-round outdoor adventurer, a member of the Ogwen Valley Mountain Rescue Team and a qualified Mountain Leader.

You can follow all of her wild adventures here.

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Thumbnail image: Photo by Lukas Blaskevicius on Unsplash

Parallax image: Photo by Amit Jagnade on Unsplash

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